My Dog Keeps Pooping In His Crate
My Dog Keeps Pooping In His Crate – My puppy is very food motivated. As soon as we start training he gets so excited about the treats that he starts randomly performing commands I didn’t ask for (sit, lie down, run to bed and wait, lay in his cage). She only follows half of the commands I give because she is so focused on the treats in my pocket. I tend to ignore any tricks she offers that I didn’t ask for. I tried randomly rewarding her throughout the day with hidden treats and giving lifetime rewards and asking her to say please. He’s doing quite well. I guess you’re wondering if I should just stay away from “workouts”? Any advice on how she can have short training sessions where she’s not too obsessed with the reward to execute the command? Sometimes I think she ignores me because she knows I don’t have a treat. Apparently I made some mistakes and I hope to correct them! She’s also not excited enough for a toy to work. Looking forward to weaning workout/treat/treat recommendations… THANK YOU!!
First, let me say, Bravo for teaching your pup all these wonderful insights! I love, I love a dog that loves to exercise. What a wonderful problem to have. I can almost see the joy on your dog’s face in anticipation of training. Side note: Research has shown that anticipation is more reinforcing than the treat itself. A bit like waiting for a vacation can be better than the vacation itself.
My Dog Keeps Pooping In His Crate
The behavior you describe, where the dog starts throwing behaviors at you, is quite common. It tends to be very common in the early stages of training. The dog may not fully understand the signal signals. Do they just know that you like it when they do, or how about that? You seem to understand not to reinforce a behavior you didn’t ask for. The reason is, as you probably know, that the dog will not learn to distinguish the correct hand or verbal cues if they are often rewarded for guessing.
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One thing to be sure of is that you don’t always ask for the same behavior in the same order. For example, every time you practice your poses, tell your dog “sit, lie down, stand up,” in that order. What tends to happen if you use the same sequence is that the dog just links the behavior together and doesn’t necessarily know what you’re asking. This is one of the reasons we teach 3 poses of sit, stand, down so you can mix the poses more. If you teach only two sitting and lying positions, the dog has a 50% chance of being rewarded for guessing correctly.
Some trainers suggest starting asking the dog for multiple behaviors for a treat instead of a cue to treat intercourse. An example would be shake, spin, down and then process. You can also work on a variable reinforcement schedule by not always reinforcing with a tidbit after a cue. This is after the dog has some importance with the behavior.
We should also be sure to vary the type of treats we use for different behaviors. Use lower value treats such as snacks, cookies for familiar cues, in familiar places. Some dogs seem to lose their temper for higher value treats. These dogs will usually work for a snack. Use the lowest treatment you can get away with using. I like to use dog food for training. I usually work on things that require a lot of reps since it provides a lot of exercise for fewer calories.
Many dogs focus too much on the area where the treat is. Whenever possible, try to have treats in jars placed throughout the house. This way, you can ask her to do something and then easily approach the treat to reinforce it. You can also take treats that you might have had in your pocket and put them out of reach somewhere.
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The other mistake I often see people make is not fading the lid fast enough. When using lures for training, there are a few tips that will make it so the dog doesn’t have to see a treat in your hand before he does the cue. First, you need to be sure to lure with one hand and feed with the other. This way the dog gets used to the food coming the other way. Don’t feed the dog! Then, when your dog performs the bait behavior, take the bait out of your hand and hold your hand as if there is food in it. The next step is to start holding your hand more in a position that resembles hand signal. You work through it slowly until the hand looks like the last hand signal.
You can also teach your dog a target signal which is used to get the dog to move while following the hand. This way, you could practice on the lid without having food in hand.
As far as staying away from “workouts” goes, the way I train every day is more like how you probably do. I try to find ways to incorporate a little exercise here and there into my everyday life. Exercise while walking, playing games, cooking dinner, etc. It’s also important that we practice in a variety of locations so our dogs can begin to generalize the behavior to a variety of situations and locations.
You don’t say you use a marker word or a clicker. A keyword is a word that indicates correct behavior and indicates that reinforcement is coming. It helps dogs isolate the behavior that has been reinforced. There is a good Kikopup trainer idea on Youtube.com to train a quiet tag. We should always be aware of the effect our movements have on dogs. Quick movements can cause a dog to fidget. Walking away can make a dog move. The idea here is to wave your hand very slowly towards the dog and deliver the treat very slowly and calmly.
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Kikopup also has a training method to help with tension around food. He starts by keeping a bag of treats around the house with low-value foods for at least five days. Croquettes can be a good surprise to start with. Whenever you see your dog acting calm and not interested in trying to get food, he very calmly walks over to a treat between his paws. We certainly can and should reinforce calm demeanor. As it gets better, we can increase the value of the treat to make it harder.
SMART X50 is a training method from instructor Kathy Sdao that I have recommended to everyone as a very easy way to incorporate exercise into your daily life and capture behavior. Stands for “
.” You start each day with 50 treats and look for behaviors you like from your dog such as lying quietly, sitting or looking at something without barking. You mark and reward the behavior as you see it. This can help you learn to start noticing things good things your dog does and strengthen them.
It’s important that you try to confront him now as we don’t want him to always get overly excited when you ask him to behave. That kind of excitement can stay with the dog for life. We want to build training that builds calmness and is incorporated throughout the dog’s life.
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Life Rewards and Say Please help introduce non-food reinforcers which are very valuable and necessary in training a dog. By teaching them that there are a variety of reinforcers that come at many different times and aren’t always food, we can help wean off so many treats. What I’ve seen is that my dogs are much more willing to do what I ask them to do because they don’t see the reinforcer, but they know they’re okay. In fact, I think for many dogs, life’s rewards may be more valuable than food. How about chasing a squirrel as a reward or playing with a canine friend? You incorporate exercise like this, and it’s much more important to the dog in those situations.
You can condition toys to be more reinforcing than they are now. If you match the toy with the food enough times, only the toy’s conditioning will apply in the end. It would seem something like this, present a surprise, then leave. Repeat many times, like thousands, and you yourself will have classical conditioning. The same can happen with praise. Many people give the dog a treat and say, “Good dog.” If you do
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