Steaming 038 Pressing The Dress How Important
Steaming 038 Pressing The Dress How Important – In the first part of our series on ironing, we introduced the equipment and preparations needed to effectively print custom garments, with a specific focus on how to iron a shirt. In Part II, we intensively discussed how to iron shirts. Today we move on to the more challenging task of pressing pants.
While they may not hesitate to iron a cotton shirt, some men shy away from printed trousers, either separately or as part of a suit, for fear that the iron will “shine” the wool and ruin it. Or they think they won’t be able to create a sharp crease along the front and back of the legs. In addition, the construction of trousers is such that you will mostly press two layers of fabric (the trouser leg), whereas a shirt will mostly involve ironing a single layer, except for the sleeves. These aspects present an additional level of challenge, but are easily handled by learning the correct techniques.
Steaming 038 Pressing The Dress How Important
As with shirts, start by preparing your ironing equipment if necessary, see Part I of our series. Make sure your pants and iron are clean. Set your iron to the correct setting, which for wool trousers will be lower than for cotton, which itself is lower than linen. Fill your iron with distilled water if you have hard tap water. This prevents scale from building up in the iron and later coming out in the form of white flakes on your pants when you use the steam. You can brush it off the fabric, but it’s an extra effort, especially if you’re working on darker colored pants; better an ounce of prevention.
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Start with the upper part of your pants, the waist and rise, which require the same technique as the upper parts of a shirt. Because there aren’t long pieces of fabric, you’ll essentially be doing detail work to get started. Here’s where a tailor’s ham comes in handy; it allows you to print along a contoured surface that better follows the curve of the fabric and the human form it will wear. Slip a ham into your pants and place the curved areas of the hip and rise over it, moving the cloth as you press. If you are worried that the iron may create an unsightly shine on wool trousers, use a pressure cloth between the iron and the fabric.
If you don’t have a tailor’s ham, you can still use a sleeve board or regular ironing surface. The lack of extensive surface area at the top of the pant ensures that you can’t really move the iron back and forth, which is a good thing: it will train you to make small movements, push down with the iron and it lifting it afterwards to move it around instead of pulling it along the fabric, which can catch and cause more wrinkles, not to mention the wool shines. The area between the belt straps, if you have them, can be reached the same way you would tackle the space between the shirt buttons, using the tip of the iron.
The legs of dress pants are tricky because you have to make a sharp crease down the middle of the leg, both front and back, to give it the right finish. Something that specifically comes up when ironing cotton pants is whether or not you should make a pleat in the front. at all. The answer depends on whether they had a folder when you bought them and it depends on the formality of the pants. Casual chinos will have a completely flat front, while those formal enough to be worn with a sport coat should have a pleat. Since we are discussing custom clothing, we assume the need to make a folder.
The biggest challenges are making sure the crease is perfectly centered in the middle of the leg and, assuming you already have a crease there, not creating another one. Many ironing guides online talk about the process as if you were making a pleat from scratch, but mostly you just want to restore and refresh the original, existing one, especially with wool pants, which don’t lose pleats easily. . On the other hand, with cotton pants, folds can fade or you can lose them. In such a case, it may be easier to iron the front of your pant leg completely flat and start a brand new crease rather than trying to repair it.
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After placing the legs on the ironing board, take the bottom leg and find the top and bottom center seam inside the opening of the leg. It’s important to only do one leg at a time, because doing two will mean you’re pressing four layers of fabric at the same time, which won’t give good results. Carefully line up the two center seams. You should be able to use the existing fold to judge whether the fold is exactly in the right place; adjust as needed and press the seam area at the front of the leg firmly against the board to set the beginning of the pleat.
Then find the same center seams inside the top of the pants to make sure the leg is straight and that the fold you make will be right in the middle of the leg. Push the top edge of the front leg as high as you want the pleat to go, usually about 18″ below the waist to set this spot. Then methodically press the leading edge up or down, again being careful not to pull the iron. If you have a wooden tailor’s flap and want to have fun, tap it along the fold you just made to make it extra sharp. Repeat the whole process with the fold on the back of the leg. An alternative is to buy and use a trouser press just for this purpose. You straighten the seams and close the pressure on the leg. That’s fine, but you’ll still want to use an iron to lift the pants, so there’s little value in having a specialized $250 piece of equipment just for the legs. Better to put the money for a vacuum ironing board.
The lesson of not swiping the iron is especially important with wool pants, not only to prevent new creases and keep your crease straight, but to prevent the wool, especially navy blue wool, from shining. When you think about it, the sweeping motion is similar to what you would do when polishing or shining shoes, so it makes sense that it could also shine your wool. Instead, press with a little force in one place, pull the iron a little, lift and go to another place. Pressing your pants this way, and even better, also using a press cloth, will pretty much eliminate the risk of shine.
Despite the overall benefits of steam in the ironing process, it is not your friend when pressing on trouser legs. Wool is more resistant to wrinkles than cotton, so pants don’t need as much steam as shirts, especially when you press the legs. If you use a lot of steam, the top layer of fabric will look good just under the iron, but moisture will remain in the bottom layer, leaving it wrinkled and wrinkled. If you flip it over and try to solve the problem with more pressure and steam, the other side will now be wrinkled and you’re stuck in an endless cycle. The problem is that you are steaming through more than one layer of cloth.
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For this reason, it is extremely important to press as few layers of material as possible, i.e. only one leg at a time, and avoid steaming. Instead, apply a light cloth to the creases of the surface before you press it. Some professionals just brush the wool lightly with a wet brush. Of course, if you have that vacuum ironing board, its suction will draw out the moisture and keep your pants perfectly flat, so there won’t be any problems.
As you can see, there are special considerations to keep in mind when printing pants as opposed to shirts. But once you realize how easy it is to keep your wool pants from shining, and have a professional-looking crease, you’ll have the confidence to move on to printing your own suits.
I’m wearing a red, white and blue plaid shirt with barrel cuffs because it’s easier than French cuffs when you’re ironing. I also skip the jacket because I wanted full range of motion so I’m not hindered when ironing, so I just opted for a blue Harris tweed jacket. I teamed it with a bordeaux red silk knit tie and off-white wool flannel winter pants. White or off-white winter flannels are not something you typically see these days, but they were very popular in the 30s. My shoes are full brogue derby wingtips in a nice maroon
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